Saturday, October 29, 2011

At Philly's Bistro 7, The Food Comes First


You might walk right by Bistro 7 in Philadelphia's Old City and never realize it.
In fact, even though we had been to this cozy storefront restaurant before we did almost exactly that last night. But we quickly checked ourselves and soon were in the intimate confines of this popular neighborhood eatery.
Chef/Owner Michael O'Haloran (formerly of Fork) relies on a network of local, organic farmers for the fresh ingredients that form the basis for an eclectic American menu, and the ever-changing choices frequently reflect the best that the season has to offer.
The place seats little more than about 50 to 70 people and the the understated minimalist decor in shades of green nonetheless boasts white linen tablecloths, filigreed heirloom flatware and graceful stoneware. The open kitchen is right there for everyone to see providing an ample view of the chefs at work. And the fragrant aromas of the kitchen waft through the room.
We began our meal with a salad of romaine, radicchio, green apples, walnuts and blue cheese with roasted garlic-honey dressing and the delicate gnocchi with cider-roasted butternut squash, toasted walnuts, sage brown sugar and pecorino romano. All wonderfully tempting.
Then it was on to our main courses of herb roasted tilefish over creamy hazelnut and chanterelle risotto with charred asparagus spears, crispy elephant garlic chips and sherry-brown butter buerre plus the natural beef short ribs braised with burgundy, garlic and rosemary potato-califlower lasagna, buttered braised celery, roasted marrow and pan jus reduction. Beautifully presented, fresh and delicious.
And the dessert? Coconut rice pudding with toasted coconut, coconut macaroon and coconut caramel as well as chocolate malted pot de creme with vanilla whipped dream. Surprisingly light. Divine!
Appetizers: $12 to $14. Entrees: $24 to $31. Dessert: $7 to $14
Trust us: This is a cut above any BYO you'll encounter. The service was seamless. The ambience was convivial. And the food really is the star. We enjoyed ever succulently satisfying moment of this meal. 
One drawback: The room became unforgivably noisy as a large party encamped next to us. Often when groups of six or more arrive and they start imbibing, they became unnecessarily loud and oafish, almost as if they're trying to outdo one another. With no little floor, wall or ceiling cushioning, this can be dreadful. But fortunately we arrived early enough to miss much of the unnecessary clamor.
Our verdict: Don't walk past this warm, enveloping gem at 7 North 3rd St. Hurry on in!
And be sure to try the Chef's tasting menu every Tuesday through Thursday -- five courses for $35!


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