You're well advised to make reservations for a table at Becco up to one month in advance.
Inside the restaurant you'll find a narrow bar alongside dining tables and a series of interconnected rooms than join in a sunny, airy larger area with skylights. Personally, we liked this larger, brighter section and that's where we sat.
We can kindly term the seating at Becco cozy -- and that means that you will be seated VERY close to other guests. In fact, if you are seated at a table for two you will be probably be close enough to chat with the other guest (if you're so inclined) and when the waiter takes their order you'll almost think he's talking to you.
We began with the caesar salad which was appropriately warm and tangy.
One of Becco's specialties is the endless trio pasta plate. A server will offer you each of three pastas and dish them out tableside from a large serving plate. Be sure of this: You're not at the Olive Garden. These pastas are each lovingly prepared, carefully served and individually savored. And the server will be back to offer you more!
The bowtie pasta in red sauce was zesty and unique. The fettuccine with just a bit of crab meat and in a clear sauce was light and easy on the palate. And the ravioli with swiss chard in a creamier sauce proved to be full and distinctive.
The swordfish was grilled and served with fresh corn, mushrooms and tiny tomatoes. Delicious! The traditional veal pramgiania was a huge veal chop (still on the bone) with fresh mozzarella and an inspired, reasonably thick, red sauce. I must say, the veal was wonderfully tender and the mozzarella was dreamy.
The eating can be hearty and the portions tend to be large here. The executive chef, William Gallagher has worked side by side with Joe and Lidia Bastianich, creating one of the most value packed and admired menus in New York City. There's plenty to choose from and (by Manhattan standards) you won't find yourself dropping a ton of money here, if you don't want to.
But you will become familiar with the other guests and you're well-advised to arrive hungry. There's a lively hustle and bustle about the place and it can become quite noisy when it's operating at full tilt, which is almost always the case. We also found our waiter to be somewhat bellowing and a bit dramatic (well, it IS the theater district). More specials are offered (verbally) than you can possibly remember. And on top of all that. service captains pace back and forth throughout, endlessly checking on everything.
But the food is good, the menu is extensive, the location is wonderfully convenient, the tariff is reasonable -- you can't always have everything, right?
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