Monday, October 4, 2010

An Enclave Where Old Italian Customs Endure







Over the weekend we attended the beautiful Feast of The Saints and Italian festival at St. Nicholas of Tolentine Parish in the heart of South Philadelphia.

What a great day it was!
All around us were vivid images of the richness of Philadelphia's most famous and most beloved neighborhood.
As always, we delighted in the music of the Verdi Band as the festival began with the American and Italian national anthems followed by the procession of the saints through the narrow streets of South Philadelphia.Once again, we walked with our patron saint, Saint Anthony. But others followed their own saints, including Saint Padro Pio, Saint Rocco, St. Rita, St. Jude, St. Joseph and of course, St, Nicholas. The Blessed Mother was also part of the procession and as you might expect, she attracted many followers as well.
As I've mentioned before, I grew up within the confines of an Italian parish much like St. Nicholas of Tolentine. And I remember the saints being carried in similar processions.
But now the saints are moved on wheeled platforms. As the saints go by (with the music of the band leading the way) people pour out of their row homes to pin one, five, ten and twenty dollar bills on ribbons attached to their favorite saint. They are paying homage to these great martyrs of the faith and also venerating them. At the same time these devotees are also thanking saints for previous favors granted and/or asking for additional favors. The saints are asked to intercede to the Lord on behalf of the faithful.
This is the old Italian way. And it continues to endure.
It reminds me of the old Italian saying: A ciascun santo la sua candela. Offer to each saint his candle. And, more broadly interpreted: Give honor where it is due.
What a joy it was to walk through the streets and see so many loving, intact families and so many well-kept homes, small gardens, caring neighbors and old-fashioned trust and devotion.
As the procession continued we winded our way back to Ninth Street between Moore and Morris Streets for the huge, three-block long festival with food, games of chance, shops and non-stop entertainment.
Italian delights included pasta, porchetta, roast beef, sausage and peppers, broccoli rabe, mozzarella sticks and tripe. My fresh roast beef sandwich was aromatic and succulent on a crisp Italian roll. Homemade wine was also on the menu along with espresso and an a wide array of pastries. We enjoyed cannoli and zeppole.
Still, while the food is the attraction for many, it's the religious meaning of the Festival of the Saints and the revered custom of joyfully (and publicly) celebrating one's faith that give the day its true resonance.
Viva Italia!

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