Thursday, December 5, 2013

Review: Informal Royalty At NYC's New Kingside

We always like to check out new restaurants, especially in the Big Apple.
So while we were in Manhattan recently we dropped by Kingside, the new eatery that's part of the Viceroy Hotel on 57th between Sixth and Seventh Avenues.

Kingside is the brainchild of partner Scott Gerber and chef/partner Marc Murphy. It features Murphy's interpretation of New American Cooking, alongside Gerber’s handcrafted cocktails. The menu repotedly takes its inspiration from Murphy’s childhood, highlighting items that trace back to his French heritage, Italian roots, American schooling and his love of travel.

In addition to an extensive raw and crudo bar, appetizers include a variety of toasts, charcuterie and cheeses, salads and small plates, while larger entrees feature pastas, fish and meats with an emphasis on sharing, including some items, such as a 32 oz. Cowboy Ribeye and a Roasted Chicken meant to be ordered for two.

The owners say that the wine program at Kingside "emphasizes the global scope of the menu with an international selection of approximately 100 bottles of sparkling, white and red, offered by the half and full bottle, as well as the quartino."

The bar at Kingside, located in the front of the restaurant, features an extensive selection of regionally brewed craft beers, as well as a wide range of small-batch spirits and liquors. The cocktail menu is designed to include an ever-changing selection of innovative cocktails highlighting market fresh ingredients in addition to classic cocktails with a modern twist.

We enjoyed white wine and prosecco recommended by the restaurant and both were excellent.

The staff here is very accommodating. In fact, three different waiters were tending to us at one time of another since we apparently arrived between shifts. All were very kind and helpful.

Since we're really not into small plates and sharing we each selected one small plate and one entree. Our small plates began with the most incredible pea soup ($14) we've ever tasted. This was not a puree. This was a full bowl of aromatic split pea beautifully seasoned and delicately garnished. And it was served with ham and cheese crositini. Wonderful! Our other small plate was a shaved Brussels sprouts salad with precious pine nuts, lemon, mint and ricotta. This turned out to be one of the most surprisingly refreshing and satisfying dishes one can imagine!

Our entrees: Roasted chicken breast with poached egg on smoked chickpea puree ($29) and roasted fresh Long Island tile fish with blue crab broth, celery root purée, olives and tomato confit ($34). The chicken was a bit bland. We had been expecting something more savory. Maybe we were spoiled by our recent trip to Paris and all the wonderful poulet we had there. The tile fish however was top-notch.

Since we were headed for the theater we skipped dessert and simply opted for coffee which was hot and full-bodied. Excellent!

Kingside is deliberately made to feel like an old-style watering hole but with a surprising spaciousness and efficient ambience with faded mirrors, cushy leather banquettes, rich wood, black and white subway tiles and some industrial touches. It all harmonizes very nicely and manages to be hip and relaxed at the same time. The bar is very lively with a young, polished crowd.

One warning: Don't come here if you are economizing because even the burger will set you back $18 and if you want it with cheese, that'll be $21. Salt and pepper fries will cost you another $10.

Below, the restaurant and our dishes shown exactly as served:







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