Monday, September 26, 2022

Journeying Northern Italy: Pure Enchantment!





The curtain-raising Cole Porter song from Kiss Me, Kate melodically proclaims: “We open in Venice”. But, on this grand tour of northern Italy, we are closing in Venice. This is our last stop and we’ll be ensconced at the famed Gritti Palace Hotel. 

So far, we’ve been in Milan, Lake Como, Stresa, Verona, Modena and Bologna. Here’s a rundown of our impressions of each place:


Milan - A sleek, up-to-the-minute cosmopolitan city with every amenity imaginable. A city of gracious boulevards, intimate side streets and the grand Victor Emanuel Galleria full of the most luxurious shops and popular restaurants. The city exhibits an upscale charm without be boastful or elitist and its ever-present trolley cars or tidy taxis will take you everywhere you need to be.


Lake Como - Famed as the waterfront attraction for the rich and famous, the lake is much, much larger than you might imagine and the water is very deep and very cold as this is a glacial lake amidst the mountains. It’s all decidedly posh and residential with only a couple of pockets that are more welcoming to tourists. And while Lake Como is the “name” attraction, you may want to spend more time in  . . . 


Stresa - Sitting on Lake Majorie, Stresa is a cozy resort town with grand hotels along a waterfront boulevard and boutique inns and hostelries elsewhere. Three arteries off the boulevard lead you into delightful squares, inviting shops and some of the best eateries you will find. Don’t miss the Borromeo Palace a short boat ride to the nearest island. It’s well worth your time.


Verona - This has been our favorite place so far on this trip. The home of Romeo and Juliet and the Two Gentlemen, it’s a must for students of Shakespeare, even though the guy never stepped foot in Verona. This town combines the sophistication of a big city with the charm and intimacy of a small town. It’s full of winding lanes and seductive discoveries at every turn and it’s one of the most scenic places you’ll ever visit as you wander through the loop created by the Adige River and take in the waterfront views. No question about it, Verona is lushly romantic!


Modena - The home of Luciano Pavarotti and Enzo Ferrari, Modena is worth a visit if only for the Ferrari museum which  features a spectacular visual tribute to Enzo himself, all of those super sexy race cars (look but don’t touch) and Enzo’s restored home. Nearby, you’ll be able to visit cheese manufacturers, wineries and purveyors of the famed balsamic vinegar. This region is delicious, in more ways than one.


Bologna - A big, noisy, bustling university town with more that 100,000 students it conveys a youthful energy amidst enclosed porticos that lead you from one street corner to another. It’s alternately grand and gritty and sometimes both at the same time as it seems unkept and preserved rather than restored in the same manner as New Orleans. Bologna is most decidedly an acquired taste.


Venice - Though it’s been vastly depicted and arguably trivialized, Venice demands your attention. Since there are no automobiles, an eerie silence is its natural mode. You don’t need a destination in Venice, simply wander aimlessly and you will have a lovely time. Don’t be afraid to get lost as you can almost always find your way back to St. Mark’s Square which is one of the most beautiful public spaces you will ever experience. If you have enough time be sure to visit The Lido, the island of Burano and the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. 


From Venice northward, this area of Italy is a traveler’s delight! 

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